TEHERAN-SHIRAZ

After two weeks in Teheran, we left the capital with a 14 days transit-visa for Pakistan. This time we were just the two of us. We stopped in Kashan, where we met a very nice couple of cyclist from the basque country (), and then make up for Abyaneh on a very quiet little road to avoid polluted majorways. Once again, the chosen route is harder for our thighs but we can't stand anymore traffic and  crazzy iranian drivers. But the detour is worth rather for landscapes than for encounters. Before the sunset, we find ourselves close to a small village. As usual, two locals invent us wolves, lions, leopards and even alligotars to prevent us from sleeping outside...we end by accepting the hospitality of Farid and his family. The following day we leave them, taking with us the memory of their nice smiles and bright eyes full of happiness, after having declined their invitation to stay one day, one week or one year more... We climb up toward Abyaneh surrounded by a very greeen decor which is a big surprise for a such arid area. It's still very hot during the day but trees have already the colors of autumn. We visit Abyaneh, a charming old village with red-brick houses. Then locals tell us to go back and to take the motorway but we prefer to try the track -recommended by a french traveler- which must lead us to Esfahan. We camp next to a little stream where we find some greenery. The following day will be one of the best cycling day: 50 kms of sandy and stony track, a pass at 2800 m high, alone with mountains under a magnificient sky. It was hard to climb but such a pleasure to get to the top, and to go down...
We spent two weeks cycling on nice mountain roads, meeting so likeable people, and visiting the famous cities of Esfahan, Yazd and Shiraz.

In Esfahan, I really enjoyed the visit of some mosques, parcs, palaces and of the Bazaar but I was especially charmed by the walkway along the river, where old bridges follow another. Yet, it's a bit desappointing to note the extent of big buildings, traffic, noise, stress and pollution (less than Teheran but still). Then it's harder to think that Esfahan was this magnificient city such praised by travellers for its roses gardens and peacefullness. No, esfahan has also been invaded by automobilists and bikers. Even in Yazd, where we really appreciated the old city, very well kept, motorcyclists don't hesitate to turn the Zoroastrians Towers of Silence into a cross playground. Nethertheless, we arrived in Shiraz and found this town much more pleasant and calm: less traffic, more greenery and a lots of peaceful parcs.
Tomorrow, we leave for the Persian Gulf (Bander-e-Busher and Bander-e-Abbas). We have still 12 days before the expiration of our iranian visa and we still don't know how we will get in India. It was so difficult to get our Pakistan visa but since Musharraf has imposed emergency rules, we don't know what to do: still cross Pakistan? Take a boat to Dubaï? We will decide in ten days according to the developpement of the situation in this country.

Estelle

Excuse that there aren't any photos with the english version of this article (but you can see home with the franc version) but I'm getting crazy with the so slow Internet connexion, next time....